Lisbon’s Top Tables
These are the eight restaurants out of the 126 entered in the 11th edition of the gastronomic competition, Lisboa à Prova Concurso Gastronómico, deemed to be Lisbon’s top tables, awarded 3 Garfos (forks) for 2018. 26 received 2 Garfos, 92 received 1 Garfos:
A Travessa – Travessa do Convento das Bernardas nº12 (Madragoa)
Alma – Rua Anchieta, nº 15, Chiado, 1 Michelin star
Eleven – Rua Marquês de Fronteira, Jardim Amália Rodrigues, 1 Michelin star
Feitoria – in the Hotel Altis Belem, 1 Michelin star
Loco – Rua dos Navegantes 53-B, 1 Michelin star
Panorama – in the Hotel Sheraton
Belcanto – Largo de São Carlos, 10, 2 Michelin stars
River Lounge – Myriad by Sana Hotel, Cais das Naus 01, Parque das Nações
Hot chefs of the moment: José Avillez, Miguel Castro e Silva, Henrique Sá Pessoa, Alexandre Silva, Vítor Sobral, Bertílio Gomes, Diogo Noronha, Kiko Martins, Ljubomir Stanisic, Olivier Costa, João Rodrigues.
Dining By Districts
In the Avenida da Liberdade Area
This is the new name after the August, 2017 renovation of the signature rooftop restaurant in the 5-star Tivoli Avenida da Liberdade, whose kitchen is now supervised by Michelin-starred chef Rui Paula of Porto’s Casa de Chá da Boa Nova and DOP and Douro’s D.O.C. The verdict is still out on chef Paula’s new venture, but the 180-degree views are spectacular. Open daily for both lunch and dinner. An affordable way to try it is to choose the weekday lunch business menu for 35€. His signature menu is priced at 90€/person, with wine pairing for 55€. See the menus.
Tel: (+351) 213 198 900
At the northern edge of Parque Eduardo VII at Rua Marquês de Fronteira, Jardim Amália Rodrigues, this sophisticated and sleek gourmet temple features glass walls affording views all the way downtown to the river. It’s a member of the Relais & Chateaux group and sports one Michelin star. Chef is Joachim Koerper. The Atlantic Menu is 94€/person, with wine pairing for 54€.
Tel: (+351) 213 862 211
The casual dining space in the stunning, new 5-star Porto Bay Liberdade Hotel, at rua Rosa Araujo, 8, 30 meters off the upper Avenida da Liberdade, above Marqués de Pombal square. It’s on the ground floor and has a beautiful terrace on the inside patio surrounded by olive and lemon trees and a lovely painted mural. The former Michelin-starred chef, Benoit Sinthon, came from Madeira to create the menu. The chef offers an executive, 3-course lunch menu Monday-Friday for 22€.
Tel: (+351) 210 015 700
At Rua Alexandre Herculano, 15A, off the Avenida da Liberdade, and handy to the Porto Bay Marqués and Vincci Liberdade hotels across the street, offers casual fare in a gourmet grocery environment at affordable prices, serving breakfast, brunch, lunch salads, sandwiches and charcuterie and afternoon tea. It is both a gourmet shop and café with a few outdoor tables. It has another branch in a converted warehouse by the river with larger outdoor terrace. Open Monday-Friday from 8:00 am to 10:00 pm and Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 9:00 am to 11:00 pm.
Tel: (+351) 213 141 474
At Júlio César Machado 7, off the Avenida da Liberdade, is a sophisticated space owned by chef Olivier da Costa, decked out with chandeliers, fresh flowers and leather banquettes. The menu offers classics like picanha wagyu and pasta with truffles and meat carpaccio. For lunch during the week it serves a 3-course menu with 2-main course choices for 18€. Open Monday-Friday for lunch at 12:30 pm and dinner at 7:30 pm, Saturdays from 7:30 pm until midnight, and “all you can eat” Sunday brunch from 12:30 to 4:30 pm.
Tel: (+351) 213 174 105
Rua Barata Salgueiro, 28 (behind the Tivoli), also owned by Olivier da Costa, is his casual outpost, offering pizzas, pasta, hamburgers and salads in a trendy atmosphere. Leather sofas, cowhide rugs, wood-fired ovens and a wall clad in wooden wine boxes give it an industrial style, and it offers a terrace. It opens daily for lunch from 12:30 until 3:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday until 4:00 pm, and for dinner from 7:30 pm until midnight.
Tel: (+351) 211 913 590
Can be found at Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, 33, just a short walk north from the Hotel Britânia, makes for a super handy spot for early, casual, and inexpensive dining on Spanish style small plates, all meant to be shared. It sports a somewhat industrial-chic look with high ceilings, bare wood tables and benches and open kitchen. Try the classic tapas dishes of garlic shrimp, battered baby squid (puntillitas), Iberian ham croquettes, spicy potatoes (patatas bravas), grilled mushrooms, steak tartare, Padrón peppers or broken eggs, all authentically Spanish. Skip the lemon sorbet with cava and opt for the much more satisfying pear crème brulée. We have yet to try their oxen steak for two, aged for three weeks, a chuletón de buey, served with fries. No innovative dining here, just a dependable spot for a light meal with gentle prices.
Since Rubro comes recommended by all of the Avenida da Liberdade hotel desk staffs, reservations are highly advisable. It opens for dinner at 7:30 pm. Visitors will find other branches of the restaurant at the classic neo-Arab style bullring (1892), Campo Pequeño, and at the Cascais indoor market, Mercado da Vila de Cascais.
In the Trendy Principe Real
Rua do Salitre 169, is another establishment owned by Lisbon native and chef Olivier da Costa, this one is his homage to beef; from Japanese Wagyu to Australian Tomahawk to Portuguese rib eye. Open Monday-Friday, the restaurant serves lunch from 12:30 to 3:00 pm and dinner from 8:00 pm until midnight. On Saturday and Sunday it’s for dinner only. At lunch the chef offers a bargain-priced 3-course executive menu for 15€.
Tel: (+351) 934 000 949
Rua Dom Pedro V, 129, next to the Príncipe Real gardens, opened last year, a project of star chef Kiko Martins. This is his homage to Peruvian cuisine, with a playful fish décor (giant octopus hanging from the ceiling). It’s a small space (tight) with a bar for eight diners and a few tables seating 26. It’s open daily from noon to midnight. Prices are reasonable. And has become quite popular with the gourmet food critics. Also recommended in the 2018 Michelin guide. No reservations accepted. Soften the wait time for a table with a pisco sour.
Tel: (+351) 218 038 815
This is another up-and-coming dining spot in the trendy Príncipe Real area, at Rua Don Pedro V, 80. Michelin-starred Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa of Alma (see below) opened this, his 3rd restaurant this spring, and here, offers a small, modern space and menu of Spanish tapas and Portuguese petiscos (small plates), combining both countries’ culinary heritage. Come here for dishes such as bombas, Iberian ham croquettes, *paella with black rice, shrimp in garlic sauce, tortillas (Spanish omelets) and crème caramel for dessert. Wines and vermouths come from both Spain and Portugal. The vegetables are all organic, the fish comes in fresh daily, and meats are prepared in a Josper oven. Like A Cevichería, it’s open daily, and continuously from noon to midnight. Also like A Cevichería, there is a counter and a few tables along the wall, room for about 36 diners. Reservations are essential!
Tel: (+351) 213 420 681
At Rua da Escola Politécnica, 27, comes from chef Diogo Noronha just opened in early October, a highly anticipated new restaurant from this esteemed chef, formerly of Casa de Pasto and Rio Maravilha, with a singular focus on seafood in its two dining rooms (one, a covered patio) and craft cocktails/oysters in the front bar, in the hands of barman Ferão Gonçalves. Chef Noronha honed his skills in the kitchens of three- Michelin starred Per Se, NYC, before moving to Barcelona to cook at the Roca brothers’ Moo in the Hotel Omm and Alkimia. The restaurant is open for lunch from noon to 3:00 pm and for dinner from 7:00 pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. Average check is around 75€. Can be reserved on the Fork.
Tel: (+351) 213 460 633
Rua Dom Pedro V 5, is a cute, Parisian-like, cozy little bistro with smooth jazz on the sound system, serving small plates and Portuguese wines. It opens daily from 3:30 pm until midnight.
Tel: (+351) 913 738 899
This tapas restaurant facing the Praça das Flores, is from Málaga where the Gorki group runs several successful tapas restaurants. Choose from an all-Spanish menu but pair the dishes with Portuguese wines. The desserts come with scrumptious gelato from the Nannarella ice cream shop nearby. Or opt for the bargain priced, 3-course lunch menu of the day for 11€. It”s open for lunch Tuesday-Thursday from 12:30 pm and for dinner from 6:30 pm to midnight and on Fridays and Saturdays it closes at 2:00 am, and on Sundays at 3:00 pm. Can be reserved on the Fork.
Tel: (+351) 213 960 564
Gin Lovers Príncipe Real is housed in the beautiful interior patio of the Ribeiro da Cunha Palace at Praça do Príncipe Real, 26, a neo-Moorish confection from the 1800s, is now the Embaixada Concept Store/gallery on the Príncipe Real square. It’s the new creation of star chef Miguel Castro e Silva, a restaurant that serves dishes meant to be shared along with a gin bar serving 60 brands of gin. Offers a degustacion menu for 34€. It’s open Sunday to Wednesday from noon until midnight and until 2:00 am on Fridays and Saturdays, with DJs spinning tunes. Can be reserved on the Fork.
Tel: (+351) 924 038 218
In the Chiado
Rua Serpa Pinto, 10, around the corner from the Opera House in Chiado. Go for the excellent value, evening three-course menu for 29€, or the Monday-Friday 18€ lunch menu. Very clever contemporary design (same designer as Paris’ Buddha Bar), delicious food and excellent service. Opens at 8:00 p.m. Closed Sundays. Rated #10 best restaurant in Portugal. Featured in NY Times “Choice Tables”.
Tel: (+351) 213 477 225
From the “Portuguese Jaime Oliver” and host of the TV program, “Secret Ingredient”, who trained with the Roca brothers of the 3 Michelin starred El Celler de Can Roca. This is his second and more elegant Alma, opened in 2015 in a Pombaline era building in the Chiado district at Rua da Anchieta, 15, near the Baroque Church of the Martyrs.
Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch at 12:30 pm and for dinner at 7:00 pm. Fusion cuisine with Asian touches. His pastry chef is a disciple of Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse. A la carte and tasting menus with standout dishes such as roast suckling pig cooked for 24 hours. The restaurant seats only 50 diners and boasts an open kitchen where the chef’s table is located. The star dessert: a chocolate bomb with salted caramel and hazelnut sorbet. Has two menus; 80€ and 100€/person, and one Michelin star for 2018.
Tel: (+351) 213 470 650
Largo da Academia Nacional de Belas Artes, 18, in a former convent lined with 18th-century tiles. Facing the Tagus River, it offers excellent views of the 12th-century cathedral and has been one of Lisbon’s most prestigious destinations for 30 years. It offers a weekday business 3-course lunch with coffee and a glass of wine for 18,50€, with a vegetarian option suggested by the chef for 25€. There is a tasting menu at dinner for 68€. One must reserve. Recommended by Michelin and Repsol. There is also its laid back downstairs wine bar, Tágide Wine & Tapas Bar*, with similarly stunning views and much lower prices such as their 9,50€ and 13,80€ lunch menus offered Tuesday-Friday.
Tel: (+351) 213 404 010
Found on the ground level of the Hotel Bairro Alto on Praça Camões, it serves a seasonal menu of contemporary, fusion cuisine. The new chef, Bruno Rocha, is garnering great reviews. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Currently closed until August 2018 for renovations.
Tel: (+351) 213 408 288
Rua dos Duques de Bragança, 7, in Chiado is one of the city’s most popular casual dining spots, so you must reserve before you arrive in Lisbon. Portugal’s trailblazer chef, Jose Avillez, left Restaurante Tavares and his Michelin star to open his first independent restaurant, this “casual canteen”, where his friends can come for small plates, friendly and laid back service and craft cocktails. It’s a simple, small, industrial-chic bistro, the little sister to his gourmet restaurant Belcanto below and his 6 other restaurants. Order the hazelnut3 dessert. Now open Monday-Friday for lunch at 12:30 pm and dinner at 7:00 pm. Open Saturday and Sunday from 12:30 pm until midnight.
Tel: (+351) 211 992 369
Largo de São Carlos, 10, next to the São Carlos National Theatre, is widely considered Lisbon’s top table and now sports two Michelin stars. Jose Avillez of O Cantinho above, opened it two years ago to much critical acclaim. It and the Cantinho were featured in a NY Times article, “5 Lisbon Restaurants Not to Miss”. The gourmet food blog Mesa Marcada ranks this restaurant as the top dining spot in the country. It is fun and youthful rather than stuffy with top-notch service. It offers a chef’s table and two menus, 125€ and 165€, plus wine parings. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Tel: (+351) 213 429 607
Another creation of chef Jose Avillez recently opened just below Cantinho de Avillez at Rua Duques de Bragança 5. With a simple interior design of marble top tables and wood chairs, it serves salads, calzones, risottos, pappardelle with ragout and sage, gnocchi with oxtail and tomato sauce and osso buco with polenta and parmesan plus pizzas from a wood-burning oven imported from Italy. The Gigi pizza is topped with tomato, burrata and prawns. Desserts include lemon sorbet, tiramisu and panna cotta. Open Monday-Friday from 12:30 pm to 3:00 pm for lunch and 7:00 pm until midnight for dinner. On Saturdays it’s open from 12:30 pm to midnight and Sundays until 11:00 pm.
Tel: (+351) 211 554 945
Yet another product in the Jose Avillez ever-expanding empire, placed next to the Sao Luz Theater at Rua António Maria Cardoso, 58, is a “gourmet bar”, with velour chairs and dark lighting, offering creative drinks and very whimsical small plates (El Bulli & Tickets style) served in “acts”, along with music from the in-house DJ on weekends. Offers 4 fixed menus beginning at 45€, plus small plates. In our opinion, it is not the best of the Jose Avillez Empire. Open daily from 7 :00 pm to 1:00 am.
Tel: (+351) 211 305 393
Is the new Chiado space just opened by chef Jose Avillez. It sits within the Teatro Nacional de São Carlos opera house. He designed it to recreate an emblematic, traditional Lisbon cafe but integrating into it a contemporary touch. It has extended hours, noon to midnight daily, and serves traditional dishes, such as bacalhau à Brás (cod) and Arroz de Pato (rice with duck and Savoy cabbage). Outside of normal dining hours it serves tapas/small plates, here known as petiscos, such as empanadas and toasted sandwiches, along with craft cocktails. And keeping with the Lisbon café tradition, it also features the classic cream custard pastries, pasties de nata. The café has an outdoor terrace for diners to enjoy a romantic repast under the stars or an afternoon snack.
Tel: (+351) 211 914 498
Housed in a wing of the ancient Trinidade Convent at Rua Nova da Trinidad, 8, is the chef’s 6th dining spot, consisting of a tavern, Taberna for tapas (petiscos), a grocery store, Mercearia for purchasing gourmet items, utensils and cookbooks, a charcuterie counter and further on, a large seafood-centric dining room (bookable), called the Páteo, recreating a two-story local Lisbon courtyard and on its second floor, the new Cantina Peruana serving Peruvian dishes and pisco sours. Standout dishes include the rice with lobster and cod a Lagareiro. An innovative dessert is the chocolate ball filled with passion fruit mousse, accompanied by homemade coconut ice cream. Avillez serves his own label of wine. One can find vegan friendly dishes on the menu as well. Open daily from noon-midnight. Recommended by the Four Seasons concierge.
Tel: (+351) 215 830 290
Rua Nova da Trinidade 11, across the street from Bairro de Avillez, is the latest creation of Avillez, focused on Middle Eastern cuisine, especially pita sandwiches and kebabs to enjoy there or to take away. With long hours, open daily from noon until midnight and on weekends until 2:00 am, one can pop it for a snack, a dessert (rose ice cream and baklava) or a full meal.
Behind a hidden passageway in Bairro de Avillez at Rua Nova da Trindade, 18, the BECO has the feel of a 1920s nightclub that only opens its door for “dinner and a show” for adults only with a pre-purchased ticket. This room has 12 tables and 4 seats at the counter. On Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays dinner, a 12-course menu of Avillez’s “greatest hits”, is served at 8:30 pm with the show starting at 11:00 pm for 120€ at a table or 100€ at the counter. On Fridays and Saturdays there are two dinner seatings, one at 7:30 pm and the second at 10:00 pm. Dinner is priced at 130€ at a table or 100€ at the counter. The show starts at midnight. No photography or filming allowed.
Tel: (+351) 210 939 234
At Rue do Alecrim, 70, is a new and rather extravagant gourmet space (or super elegant food court) that has opened in one of the three wings of the Palacio del Barón de Quintela, built in 1781, offering seven different dining and drinking options or gastronomic concepts, open daily, non-stop from noon until midnight Sunday to Thursday and until 2:00 am on Fridays and Saturdays.
Diners take charge a card from the host at the entrance and choose dishes from the various purveyors (grilled meats from Atalho, tapas, gourmet burgers, gluten free and organic from Local, etc.) and enjoy them at one sofas or beanbag chairs or tables. Upstairs in the former ballroom decorated with beautiful frescoes and delicate stucco work, up the grand double staircase, one finds a more sophisticated environment with a champagne- oyster bar, an Iberian ham and artisan cheeses bar and a sushi bar, Sushic. Recently reviewed in the NY Times.
Tel: (+351) 210 101 184
Which means “Here there is fish”, is found at Rua da Trinidade, 18A, where the Chiado meets the trendy Bairro Alto. It’s a stylish newcomer with a pretty nautical theme that serves classic seafood dishes, such as baby clams cooked with olive oil, fresh coriander and garlic and shrimp with piri-piri sauce. For those non fish lovers, there is a picanha (rump steak) with bacon rice, black bean and mango chutney that recalls the chef’s time cooking in Brazil. The chef, Miguel Reino, personally selects his fish daily from the seafood market. And of course they have their on sailboat. Recommended by Alec Lobrano in the NYTimes. Closed on Monday (no fresh fish).
Tel: (+351) 213 432 154 / 963 695 601
Calçada do Sacramento, 44, in the Chiado, is a rustic but modern bistro-bar-café under the direction of Chef Hugo Landeiro. The restaurant serves a fixed price 3-course meal for 25€. Open for lunch Monday-Friday from 12:30 pm to 3:00 pm and for dinner daily from 7:30 pm until midnight.
Tel: (+351) 213 420 572
Rua das Flores 103, next to Luis Camoes Square, is a new spot in a compact, narrow space with fewer than 20 seats that looks like an old “mom and pop” type grocery store, or mix of tavern and deli with vintage decor, and serves authentic, traditional, “mom and pop” type food that has been praised by local food bloggers and professional gastronomic critics. Very popular. Tapas, or petiscos are served throughout the day. The chalkboard menu, delivered to each table, is market-driven with only the freshest of ingredients found that day. No reservations, so go early or expect to wait in line. Open Monday-Friday from noon until midnight, but doesn’t open on Saturdays until 6:00 pm, and does not accept credit cards. Featured in Lisboa Cool. Closed Sundays.
Tel: (+351) 213 479 418
On the second floor of the new Hotel Le Consulat at Largo Camões, like its older and wildly popular brother around the corner, the Taberna da Rua das Flores above, is a diminutive space with only 24 seats. Here chef André Magalhães serves a “fine dining” tasting menu only, consisting of 3 snacks, an amuse bouche, a starter, a fish, a meat, a pre-dessert and dessert with petit fours for 56€. It only opens for dinner and is closed Sunday/Monday.
Tel: (+351) 938 596 429
The Bairro Alto
Largo da Trinidade, 9, in the Bairro Alto, a northern, steep bohemian quarter, north of the Chiado, is a small restaurant on a narrow street of the Bairro, whose chef offers a very creative menu, which is fresh, light and imaginatively presented. Spread out over two floors, is has a beautiful Art Deco interior, and the chef often invites local artists to display their work. Featured in the red Michelin guide. Open daily from 7:00 pm to 2:00 am. Kitchen closes at midnight. Rated in the top 20 best restaurants in Portugal in 2018 by Time Out Lisboa.
Tel: (+351) 910 307 575
At Rua das Gáveas, 69, is one of the neighborhood’s most popular spots for romantic, stylish, comfortable tablecloth dining in former stables adorned with stone arches and beautiful blue and white tiles. Specialty dishes: the roast octopus with olive oil and potatoes and the John Dory filets with razor clam rice. There are several vegetarian options. Open Monday-Thursday from 7:30 pm to midnight, Friday and Saturday from 7:30 pm to 1:00 am.
Tel: (+351) 213 468 557 / 213 462 603
Located above its sister restaurant, Lisboa à Noite, at Rua das Gáveas 89, is very popular. Serves traditional Portuguese dishes. Recommended dishes include the fried sole and the cod and for dessert the caramel mousse. It offers menus in multiple languages and an outdoor terrace. Open Tuesday-Friday from 12:30 am to 12:30 pm, Monday and Saturday from 7:00 pm to 12:30 am, closed Sunday.
Tel: (+351) 213 461 252 / 213 431 281
This is the 6th Lisbon creation of chef Miguel Castro e Silva, after Largo, the now closed De Castro Elías and De Castro Flores, his eponymous counter in the Time Out Mercado do Ribeira and Less (Gin Lovers). It sits on the top floor of the new 5-star Apartment Hotel Lumiares at Rua do Diário de Notícias, 142, at the top of the Gloria Funicular, with gorgeous 180-degree views and an outdoor terrace. The chef serves Sunday brunch until 4:00 pm and a tasting menu for 55€. Open Monday and Saturday for lunch and dinner and on Sunday for brunch from 12:30 to 4:00 pm.
Tel: (+351) 911 548 957
Campo do Ourique
Rua Domingos Sequeira 41, in the up-and-coming, artsy Campodo Ourique neighborhood. The noted chef, Vítor Sobral, one of three, also owns the Peixeria da Esquina and initiated Lisbon’s “new tascas” movement. Well worth the inexpensive taxi ride. Have the desk staff reserve. It, and the Peixaria da Esquina (formerly Cervejaria da Esquina), were featured in a NY Times article, “5 Lisbon Restaurants Not to Miss”. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch from 12:30 to 3:30 pm and for dinner from 7:30 to 11:30 pm. On Mondays it’s open for dinner only, and closed all day Sunday.
Tel: (+351) 210 993 939 / 919 837 255
Formerly known as Cervejaria da Esquina, it can be found at Rua Correia Teles, 56, on the #28 tram route. A new project from the Grupo Vítor Sobral, it shares the same noted chef as Tasca da Esquina, has an open kitchen and seats 50 diners in two dining rooms. Come here for chef Sobral’s shellfish, his marinated and cured fish, and his rice and cataplana dishes. Has been rated the 6th best restaurant in Portugal. The NY Times says “a celebrity chef meal at a common man’s prices”. Serves small and medium size plates meant for sharing-sophisticated but informal. Open Tuesday-Friday for dinner from 7:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday for lunch from 12:30 with dinner at 7:30 pm. Closed Mondays.
Tel: (+351) 213 874 644
Meaning “place”, not “crazy”, is at Rua Navegantes, 53-B, near the Estrela Basilica. It’s a striking contemporary space opened by cutting edge chef Alexandre Silva, winner of Top Chef Portugal. Has an open kitchen and only a few tables seating for around 20-25 diners and serves two constantly changing tasting menus only. The Discover menu is 80€ (14 small plates) and the Loco menu is 90€ (18 plates minimum), and are divided into snacks, dishes and desserts. The additional wine pairing features all Portuguese wines. Has 1 Michelin star, new in 2017. Only open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner from 7:00 pm until 11:00. Closed from December 31 to January 8.
Tel: (+351) 213 951 861
Costa do Castelo, 7, at the top of the Alfama hill has a courtyard garden restaurant inside a former 17th-century prison with terrific views of the Tejo River and the Alfama. It’s now in the hands of rising star chef Bertilio Gomes, who offers a menu of Portuguese classics with an innovative touch. Open daily from noon to midnight.
Tel: (+351) 218 875 077
At the riverfront, Cais do Sodré
Housed in a former salt warehouse at Armazém A porta, Cais do Sodré, 2, the restaurant, named after an island off the northern coast of Mozambique, boasts a fantastic riverside location and features the cuisine of the former African colonies, particularly Mozambique. Standout dishes include crab curry and prawns à Laurentina. In addition, chef João Pedro Pedrosa also offers Zambeziana’s roasted chicken and tenderloin steaks. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch from 12:30 to 3:00 pm and for dinner from 7:30 to 11:00 pm, lunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 12:30 to 3:30 pm, with dinner on Saturdays until 1:00 am. Count on an average check of about 40€, without wine.
Tel: (+351) 961 332 024
The Ibo group has opened another outpost (for Marisqueira) directly facing the road (no pretty water views) at Rua Cintura de Porto de Lisboa, 22, with a selection of more economically priced seafood dishes. Open Tuesday-Friday from 7:30 pm to midnight and Saturdays and Sundays from 12:30 pm until midnight.
Tel: (+351) 929 308 068
Popular since 1981, it has moved from the Bairro Alto to the hip Time Out Mercado da Ribeira indoor market, upper level, west side, at the riverfront at at Avenida 24 de Julho 49. and is still overseen by Chef Manuela Brandão. Offers a 3-course market menu for only 20€. Open noon to midnight on Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday, and noon to 2:00 am, Thursday-Saturday.
Tel: (+351) 213 464 811 / 911 798 450
Located at Rua da Ribeira Nova, 28, and new in 2015, brings in the meat lovers who can pick their meat cut from six cuts (sirloin, picanha, chuletón de buey, etc), type of sauce and side dishes, such as sweet potato dauphinoise, lettuce hearts, and endive salad with Roquefort or truffled potato purée. The meat is grilled on a Josper oven and served on rustic wooden boards with roasted vine cherry tomatoes, smoked tomato relish and fleur de sel. In 2017, Luís Gaspar was named Portugal’s Cozinheiro do Ano, chef of the year. Open Monday-Friday for lunch from noon until 3:00 pm and dinner from 7:00 pm-midnight. On Saturdays and Sundays it’s open continuously from noon to midnight. As it only has room for 28 diners, 18 at the tables and 10 at the counter, weekend dining is divided into two seatings, the first at 8:00 pm, the second at 10:00 pm. Reservations available on the Fork.
Tel: (+351) 213 460 030
Portuguese for “eating house”, this family run restaurant, liked by none other then Mick Jagger, can be found at Rua de São Paulo, 20, just above the Cais do Sodré, on the first floor of a Pombal-era apartment building with a pink pig dangling between the lace curtain bedecked windows on the face of the building just above the door. Upstairs you’ll find several retro-chic, dining rooms, looking a bit like granny’s house from the early 1900s, with walls covered in kitsch-y wallpaper and adorned with vintage plates, ceramic bull’s and ram’s heads and cupboards filled with bric-a-brac.
The 27-year old chef, Hugo Dias de Castro, offers updated traditional fare prepared on a Josper stove. We had a fine lunch here recently, consisting of cockle rissoles, grilled octopus with kale, succulent Iberian pork, and a 10-hour veal shank, the house specialty, all accompanied by grilled vegetables. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch at 12:30 pm and dinner at 8:00 pm.
Tel: (+351) 963 739 979
Also in Cais do Sodré, nearby at Rua Nova do Carvalho, 44, is a tiny restaurant/late night snack bar housed in an old fishermen’s supply shop, where you’ll find rods and reels, baits, nets and hooks and a menu with dozens of varieties of Portugal’s excellent canned fish (such as salt cured tuna, muxama) accompanied by bread from the Alentejo, beer or white wines, served at tiny low tables for two. Open daily from noon to 4:00 am. Perfect for night owls.
Tel: (+351) 213 467 203
Rua Rodrigues Faria 103, on the 4th floor of one of the buildings of the LX Factory, with the same owners (Mainside) as Casa de Pasto, is an informal gastrobar with wonderful views of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge. The décor is a mix of industrial with tropical Brazilian and the cuisine Portuguese with a Brazilian twist, and dishes are meant to be shared. Barman Fernão Gonçalves prepares a rum sour with braised pineapple, honey, rosemary and paprika that pairs well with the dishes. It opens Tuesday from 6:00 pm to 2:00 am, Wednesday-Saturday from 12:30 pm until 2:00 am. Sundays from 12:30 to 8:00 pm. This makes a good option for those who need to dine at odd hours. Closed Mondays.
Tel: (+351) 966 028 229
There are two dining spaces in the contemporary Altis Belém Hotel & Spa overlooking the Tagus River, the Michelin-starred Feitoria, considered one of Portugal’s top ten tables, with their menu Terra priced at 85€ plus wine. Open for dinner only starting at 7:00 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. The more informal space downstairs, the Mensagem, a cafeteria, oyster and sushi bar, with outdoor terrace, which makes a handy, albeit busy, stop after a visit to the Belém monuments. The cafe opens daily for breakfast at 7:00 am, lunch at 12:30 pm and dinner at 7:30 pm. Sunday brunch starts at 12:30 pm.
Tel: (+351) 210 400 208 / 210 400 209
Another casual dining spot, a large contemporary white cube housing a restaurant and hugely popular terrace, decorated in pure white, facing the river, just a one minute walk, 200 meters west of the Monument to the Discoveries at Doca do Bom Sucesso. The kitchen is open daily from 10:00 am until midnight, 1:00 am on weekends, so one can enjoy a breakfast lunch, pre-dinner cocktail (perfect place to be at sunset) or late night dinner. Menu items include sandwiches, salads, tapas and larger plates plus homemade desserts.
Tel: (+351) 918 620 032
At Travessa Marta Pinto, 10, tucked away down an alley close to, and east of the Confeitaria Pasteis de Belém, the custard tart eatery. Was named one of the best Hot Spots for Wining and Dining in Lisbon and a hidden gem for wine lovers. Open daily from 1:00-11:00 pm. Wines by the glass are priced at 4,50€ and can be accompanied by chef Ricardo Gonçalves’s traditional tapas, such as a delicious roast pork.
Tel: (+351) 213 631 511 / 964 359 136
Portuguese for Bastard, is located on the 1st floor of the Bohemian feeling International Design Hotel, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, at Rua da Betesga, 3, near Rossio, is a playful spot with mismatched tables and chairs and a Pop Art look. “We mix water with fire and try to please every crowd.” Open daily from noon to 11:00 pm.
Tel: (+351) 213 240 993
At Travessa das Pedras Negras, just a few feet from the Cathedral (Sé) in a former cannery, where one can see the Roman ruins by the wine cellar. The concept here is “farm to table”, where only seasonal and fresh local ingredients are used. Vegetables are organic as are the Portuguese wines. The chef António Galopito trained in London with Michelin-starred Nuno Mendes. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Tel: (+351) 210 534 649
Parque Das Nacoes
French chef Frederic Breitenbucher, formally of the Michelin stared restaurant at Fortaleza do Guincho in Cascais, presents his signature Mediterranean cuisine in a unique, contemporary setting overlooking the Targus River and the Vasco da Gama Bridge, Europe’s longest bridge. Located on the ground floor of the Myriad by Sana Hotel at Rua do Cais das Naus, which itself is in the Torre Vasco de Gama, Lisbon’s tallest skyscraper. Open daily for lunch from 12:30 to 3:30 pm and for dinner from 7:30 to 10:30 pm. There is a terrace for enjoying your cocktail on a sunny day. The degustacion menu goes for 75€ person, or 90€ with wine paring. The seasonal menu is 60€. There is also a separate Cigar lounge for cigar lovers and live entertainment every evening at 7:00 pm. A fixed priced Brunch menu is served on Saturdays and Sundays from 12:30 to 3:30 pm.
Tel: (+351) 211 107 600
Across the Tagus
“Jump in the river” to reach it, is a piece of heaven for seafood lovers, but you must take a 12-minute ferry ride on a cacilheiro (fare 1,20€), running from sunrise to sunset, from the Cais de Sodré to Caçilhas (Almada) on the south bank of the Tagus, Once at the ferry terminal, take a right and walk about 15 minutes, or about 800 meters, past warehouses in ruins, along the quay down to Rua do Ginjal, to the end at the pier at number 69/70. Fish here comes as fresh as it gets. Portions are large. It’s been recommended by the London Times and is open for lunch and dinner daily, except Mondays. Reservations advisable.
Tel: (+351) 212 751 380